FAQs
Will a radon mitigation system increase my electric bill?
Barely. The fan draws roughly what a household light bulb does and runs without stopping, which for most homes works out to a few dollars a month. The sealing done during installation typically offsets part of that by closing air leaks that were already there.
The arithmetic
Residential radon fans are small, typically drawing something in the range of a few dozen watts up to around ninety depending on the model and how much resistance the system presents. Running continuously, that lands most households at a few dollars a month on the electricity line. It is a real cost and a small one, and it is predictable in a way most household loads are not.
Fan sizing is what moves the number, and bigger is not better. A unit chosen to overcome the actual resistance of the system draws less and runs quieter than one oversized on the theory that more suction must help.
Why it has to run all the time
The obvious saving is a timer, and it does not work. The system holds the space under the slab at lower pressure than the basement, and that difference is what keeps flow running the correct direction at every opening. Switch the fan off and the pressure equalises within a short time, entry resumes, and the level climbs back.
Cycling it also undermines the thing that makes the result trustworthy. A house whose system runs intermittently has no stable level to measure, and a confirming test taken during an on period says nothing about the rest of the week.
The offset people do not expect
Installation includes closing the openings that were carrying the most gas, and those same openings were carrying conditioned air out of the house. Sealing a sump pit lid, the slab-to-wall joint, and the gaps around penetrations reduces the uncontrolled air exchange that was already costing money on heating and cooling.
The offset is rarely enough to cancel the fan outright, and it is real. For most houses the honest summary is that the whole thing is close to a wash against existing leakage, with the fan itself too small a load to notice against seasonal variation in a utility bill.
Still deciding what to do about a reading? The testing page covers how a measurement is taken, and what a system costs breaks the ranges down by method. If you got here from a map or a ZIP-code lookup, what Ohio's radon maps show explains what those averages are actually measuring.
Related questions
- How loud is a radon fan?Correctly sized and mounted outside the living space, it is close to inaudible indoors. What people notice is a faint rush of moving air near the pipe rather than the motor. Noise complaints almost always trace back to an oversized fan or a mounting decision, not to the technology.Read the answer
- How long does a radon fan last?Manufacturers rate them for several years of uninterrupted running and many exceed that comfortably. Replacement is a short service call rather than a new system, since the pipe, the suction point and the sealing all stay exactly as they are.Read the answer
- Can a heat recovery ventilator (HRV) fix a radon problem?An HRV dilutes indoor air, so it will lower a reading, but it treats the symptom rather than the cause and its effect is bounded by how much air it moves. For a house above the action level, sub-slab depressurization is the appropriate system; an HRV is a supporting measure in specific situations.Read the answer
- Is a radon mitigation system under warranty, and for how long?Three separate things carry cover and they expire on different schedules: the fan under its manufacturer's warranty, the installation workmanship under the contractor's, and the result itself under whatever performance commitment was written into the quote. Get all three in writing before work starts.Read the answer

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Describe the foundation and what the reading was, and we'll tell you what it means before anything gets scheduled.
