What It Costs
What a radon mitigation system actually costs
Nobody can quote your house from a web page. What this one can do is show you what the published numbers cover, and what a cheap quote is usually missing.

The published ranges, and who published them
The EPA's Consumer's Guide to Radon Reduction puts most residential systems between roughly $800 and $2,500, and attributes the spread to the size, design and foundation of the house. The National Radon Program Services at sosradon.org gives a national average nearer $1,200, with $800 to $1,500 described as the common band. Wisconsin's Department of Health Services, which publishes its own guidance, quotes $1,000 to $2,000.
Companies advertising around Cincinnati and Dayton land in the same territory. The $800 to $2,500 band turns up most often, one local pricing calculator lists $1,200 to $2,400, and testing on its own is generally advertised somewhere between $100 and $300.
Those are other people's numbers, reproduced here because they are useful, not because they are ours. We do not publish a price list, for the straightforward reason that we have never seen a house we could price accurately without visiting it. What the figures are genuinely good for is a sanity check on whatever quote you are holding.
What a low quote has usually left out
A number landing well below that band is rarely a bargain and is usually a smaller scope. The omissions are predictable enough to check for by name.
A second suction point is the most common. One point cannot serve a wide single-storey slab or a floor divided by interior footings, and finding that out at the verification test costs far more than fitting it on the first visit would have. Sealing is the next: the joint where the floor meets the wall, an open sump pit, the gaps where utilities enter. Crawlspace membrane is slow, hands-and-knees work and is sometimes quietly dropped. Block-wall treatment is a separate intervention from anything happening under the floor, and on a hollow-block foundation a slab-only design is answering half the question.
Then there is the verification test itself. A system without one is a fan and a hope. If it is not named in the quote, ask whether it is included or extra.
What actually moves your number
Four things, in roughly this order. How many suction points the pressure readings call for, which is measurement rather than guesswork. What your foundation is made of, since a poured basement, a crawlspace, a slab on grade and a hollow-block wall are four different jobs. How far pipe has to travel to reach a discharge point that clears the roofline and stays away from windows. And whether the walls need treating alongside the floor.
Ask a contractor to tell you which of those four apply to your house and roughly what each adds. A quote stops being a mystery the moment somebody names the drivers, and an estimator who will not is either guessing or hiding the scope.
Why testing comes first, and what that costs
Testing is advertised locally between $100 and $300, and it is the cheapest decision you will make in this process, because plenty of houses turn out not to need a system at all. Ohio also gives homeowners free radon test kits, which we would rather you knew about than not.
A measurement first also prices the job properly. Pressure-field readings taken in your basement are what decide how many suction points the design needs, and that is the single biggest variable in the final figure.
Questions worth asking before you sign anything
How many suction points is this quote priced for, and what happens to the number if diagnostics call for another? Is sealing included, and which openings specifically? Does the price include a verification test after the fan is running? Where will the pipe run, and where does it discharge? Is the figure fixed, or an estimate that can move on the day?
Five questions, and the answers tell you more about a contractor than any review will. Anyone who has actually looked at your house can answer all five without hesitating.
How we quote
Somebody visits, measures, and puts a fixed figure in writing. The number in that document is the number you pay; nothing is added on the morning of the work. If the reading does not justify a system we will say so and suggest a date to test again, which happens more often than you might expect from a company that installs them.
What a complete quote should cover
- Pressure-field measurement before anything is drilled
- Every suction point the readings call for, not just the first
- Sealing at the floor-to-wall joint and utility entries
- A serviceable, gasketed lid on any open sump pit
- Crawlspace membrane where a crawl is part of the design
- Block-wall treatment where the walls are hollow
- A labelled system with a gauge you can read
- A verification test once the fan is running
- The paperwork, formatted for a closing file

Find out where your home actually stands
Describe the house and we will put a written figure to it. No deposit, no pressure, and no obligation to go ahead.
